Day 59 - Silver Pass

June 23, 2012

Day 59

Miles: 7

Total Miles:  886

I hiked from VVR to just pas Silver Pass today.  I took the 4 PM Ferry across Edison Lake where I crossed paths with Rapunzel who told me that her friend Kristina quit the hike and flew back to Germany - too bad.  She had her reasons and top of the list was missing her boyfriend.  She also had bad blisters and other problems that became too much for her.  If I'm not enjoying my hike at some point it would make sense to quit - but I don't see that happening.

I ran into Histo (Bryce) on the way up to Silver Pass and we hiked over together.  I hiked with Histo the first day out of Kick-Off at lake Moreno so it would great to see an old face.  We cowboy camped atop a plateau overlooking the trail and it was a cold night but the views were spectacular!

Day 56 - Muir Pass

June 20, 2012

Day 56

Miles: 17

Total Miles: 842

Self-Portrait on Muir Pass

Muir Pass was impressive - the best yet!  The climb was a long one:  ten miles of ascending from 8000 ft to 12,000 ft.  Around every bend was a new alpine lake, a snaking river or another amazing view!  There were several snow crossings on the way up as well - unusual this year.  Several times I came up to a peak up ahead and anticipated the summit only to be shown a much taller peak - false summits!  But I was never dissapointed with the accompanying views.



Sunset over Sapphire Lake after Muir Pass

Finally at the top - I found Creeper and Twisted exploring the Muir Hut, which was built by the Sierra Club to honor the contributions of the founder - John Muir.  I was tempted to sleep in the hut but instead decided to hike down four miles to Sapphire Lake and set up camp as the sun set over the lake.  I found a nice spot and snapped some pictures of the sun reflecting off the lake.  

Jamaican Jerk Rice & Chicken and some green tea for dinner.  A fantastic day!

Day 55 -Two Passes

June 19, 2012

Day 55

Miles: 21

Total Miles: 825

click to see full size image

I hiked over Pinchot Pass and Mather Pass today.  After Mather Pass there was a long slog down past the Palisade Lake on the "Golden Staircase".  This section of trail descends down a cliff face very steeply.  The trail is cut into the cliff and many spots are extremely steep and winding.  Here is a link on the staircase with it's history.  This section was the final section of the John Muir Trail completed in 1938.  I hiked down the staircase in the evening after already hiking 18 miles over two passes earlier in the day.  My feet were really sore and if I knew about the descent before I climbed down it I probably would have camped at the lake instead.



Sierra Waterfall

But I can't complain, for I just climbed over two gorgeous passes on the JMT - arguably one of the most scenic trails in the world!  There is a saying that I recently read concerning another long distance trail - the CDT (Continental Divide Trail) - that says "Embrace The Brutality".  It refers to the point you get to on a long-distance hike where you know you can handle anything and everything thrown at you.  Once you're out here for weeks on end and have experienced the gail-force winds, desert heat, cold and frosty nights and bone-chilling river fords enough times you gain a sort of confidence that you will make it through and cope with whatever conditions you find yourself in.  And once you begin to embrace that, you can relax and let go of the fear and enjoy the knowledge that you will get through it no matter what it is and you will be rewarded.  I think I am beginning to get to this point.  It's an incredible feeling to know you can handle it - whatever it is.  The feeling of freedom that comes from this is amazing.

Day 50 - Forrester Pass

June 14, 2012

Day 50

Miles: 20

Total Miles: 790

Siddhartha, me and Threshold on top of Forrester

Today the four of us - Siddhartha, Denise, Threshold and I - hiked up and over Forrester Pass.  Forrester Pass is the highest point on the Pacific Crest Trail at 13,200 ft. in elevation.  The pass was daunting viewing it from below.  I see a huge granite wall with a large steep rock fall in front of you and could't imagine where a trail could take me to the top.

Soon though, as we climbed closer to the wall, a faint trail appeared weaving through the rock fall.  The climb up was steep but soon I was standing at the top and taking in the view of Kings Canyon National Park to the north and Sequoia National Park to the south.  In past years climbing this pass would have required traversing a steep snow bank near the top of the pass - an often treacherous crossing requiring an ice axe and micro-spikes.  This year, however, the snow was melted and no crossing was necessary. This year is an almost recored low snow year and crossing over snow in the passes will be rare and I have not carried an ice axe or micro-spikes.

Climbing down into Kings Canyon N.P. into the tree line was impressive as the views never stopped.  I winded my way down next to a river with the canyons towering above me to the left and right.  At the Kearsarge Pass trail we left the PCT and hiked toward Kearsarge Pass toward our destination the next day - the town of Independence and then a hitch to Bishop for a zero day.  We camped for the night at Kearsarge Lake after rain and thunder clouds threatened us from the high peaks.

Hikers climbing toward Forrester Pass

View north from the top of Forrester Pass

Siddhartha and I camped out at Kearsarge Lake

The views in Kings Canyon N.P. never stopped!